A pocket door is a sliding interior door that disappears into a wall cavity when opened. It saves space because it does not swing like a regular hinged door.

Pocket doors slide on a track inside the wall. When you push or pull the door, it glides into the pocket area of the wall so it is hidden from view.

Yes. A pocket door needs a special frame kit built into the wall so the door has space to slide into. You cannot install one properly without the correct framing.

• Saves floor space
• Ideal for small or large rooms
• Great for tight layouts
• Can be upgraded with Soft Close / Soft Open or an EZ Closer
• Creates a clean, streamlined look
• Works well for bathrooms, closets, offices, and more

• A pocket door frame kit with header, track, and hardware
• A door slab
• Jambs, trim, and casing to finish the opening
• Drywall finishing materials
• Optional upgrades like Soft Close / Soft Open or an EZ Closer

• 1 3/8" thick doors — typical for interior rooms
• 1 3/4" thick doors — often used for heavier or more solid doors

• Door size
• Door thickness
• Rough opening size
• Wall thickness
• Door height
• Soft Closers / Soft Open
• EZ Closers

• Galvanized steel studs
• Solid wood header
• Heavy-duty aluminum track
• Hidden floor guide
• All necessary mounting hardware
• 4-wheel ball-bearing hangers, or upgraded options depending on the kit you choose

An EZ Closer helps quickly release the door from its cavity with one push. It also helps prevent the door from slamming into the pocket frame when opening.

A hidden bottom guide keeps your pocket door centered and sliding smoothly as it moves in and out of the wall cavity. It helps keep the bottom of the door in place and reduces wobble.

Soft Close allows the door to slide normally until the mechanism gently pulls it into the closed position against the jamb. It helps minimize slamming.

Soft Open helps keep the door from slamming against the stud at the back of the pocket when opening.

Yes. You can build a pocket door into a block wall. You can purchase a pocket door kit made for the correct wall thickness, or build an add-on wall attached to the block wall, which is often the easier option for an existing wall.

In many cases, yes. Hollow core, solid core, raised panel, flat panel, and some French doors with glass can be used. Existing doors may also work.

For doors already drilled for a standard 2 1/8" bore, you can use round pocket door locks made for that opening.

Common wall thicknesses include 2 x 4 walls (3 1/2"), 2 x 6 walls (5 1/2"), and some 6" concrete block walls. Drywall thickness is commonly 1/2" or 5/8" on each side. Custom-width frame kits may also be available for unusual wall sizes.

Pocket doors are usually installed in interior walls. The most difficult place to install one is in a load-bearing wall, because structural support would need to be addressed first.

In an existing finished wall, part of the wall must be opened to create the pocket cavity. In new construction, the opening should be framed first.

See the full installation instructions for more detail.

On average, a pocket door system can help free up about 15 square feet of usable floor space per door because there is no swing path to accommodate.

Common causes include alignment issues, roller adjustment, wall movement, minor wall bends, or using the wrong door thickness for the kit. House settling can also affect performance over time.

From time to time, lubricate the rollers with a silicone spray to help the ball-bearing rollers continue to glide smoothly.

Pocket doors can use several styles of pulls and locks, including traditional rectangular styles, round styles that fit a standard 2 1/8" bore, flush pulls, and higher-end mortise lock options.

• Rectangular pocket door locks
• Round pocket door locks

Pocket doors can work very well for accessibility because wider openings can accommodate wheelchairs and walkers more easily. The current page notes a 32" minimum door width for wheelchair access and a maximum threshold height of 1/2" under the ADA information referenced there.